TY - JOUR
T1 - Power relations in global supply chains and the unequal distribution of costs during crises
T2 - Abandoning garment suppliers and workers during the COVID-19 pandemic
AU - Anner, Mark
N1 - Publisher Copyright:
© The author 2022 Journal compilation © International Labour Organization 2022.
PY - 2022/3
Y1 - 2022/3
N2 - In early 2020, apparel brands and retailers cancelled US$40 billion worth of orders, with critical consequences for suppliers and workers. Their actions illustrate the power asymmetries in global supply chains and the unequal distribution of costs during crises. This article explores these dynamics through original survey data, supplier questionnaires, stakeholder interviews, a time-line analysis and trade data analysis. Findings point to certain limits of buyer power, reflected in the effective collaboration between suppliers and worker rights advocates in the “#PayUp” campaign. Yet buyers retain the power to squeeze suppliers with adverse impacts on workers, thus leading to calls for binding agreements.
AB - In early 2020, apparel brands and retailers cancelled US$40 billion worth of orders, with critical consequences for suppliers and workers. Their actions illustrate the power asymmetries in global supply chains and the unequal distribution of costs during crises. This article explores these dynamics through original survey data, supplier questionnaires, stakeholder interviews, a time-line analysis and trade data analysis. Findings point to certain limits of buyer power, reflected in the effective collaboration between suppliers and worker rights advocates in the “#PayUp” campaign. Yet buyers retain the power to squeeze suppliers with adverse impacts on workers, thus leading to calls for binding agreements.
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85125067013&partnerID=8YFLogxK
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=85125067013&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1111/ilr.12337
DO - 10.1111/ilr.12337
M3 - Article
C2 - 34898712
AN - SCOPUS:85125067013
SN - 0020-7780
VL - 161
SP - 59
EP - 82
JO - International Labour Review
JF - International Labour Review
IS - 1
ER -